Business & Tech

Vegan Restaurant Returning to its Roots in Middletown's North End

Middletown's award-winning vegetarian restaurant It's Only Natural began serving meatless fare 30 years ago — in a funky deli counter space on Main Street.

The city's award-winning vegetarian restaurant is returning to its roots next month when it takes up residence in Middletown's North End — a part of town where It's Only Natural began serving meatless fare 30 years ago.

Already, renovations are fully underway to transform the former Master Industrial Supply storefront at 606 Main Street into a funky exposed brick kitchen and dining space worthy of ION's eclectic and original fare. 

Owner Renana Magee, who two years ago became sole owner, buying out partner Mark Shadle after nine years as co-owner, says ION began as a tiny vegan lunch counter in the now Krust Pizza Bar space. 

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ION will also be joining the popular Eli Cannon's Tap Room and NoRA Cupcake Co. in the North of Rapallo Avenue or NoRA section of Middletown's North End.

Ken Bergeron founded ION's original incarnation and Shadle has since created the all-vegan restaurant G-Zen in Branford and vegan roaming food truck gmonkey.

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Magee says the rising cost of rent in the Main Street Market, the 9 p.m. closing time for businesses there and her location in the very back of Main Street's walking mall prompted her to seek another restaurant space.

"We get calls all the time from people in front of It's Only Natural Market (never affiliated with ION but they did share a space in the early years), wondering where we are. Now I can literally walk outside on Main Street and wave to them from across the street," Magee says.

The new location, about the same square footage, will give her the impetus to return to ION's roots in creating a menu that's entirely free of animal products.

"We are 99 percent vegan now," she says. "And that will allow us to be 100 percent." 

She has visions of new menus items and possibly obtaining a full liquor license. Right now, ION offers vegan beer and wine. "We'd like to do infused cocktails and other drinks," eventually, Magee says.

Although she's mourning the loss of ION's signature back deck outdoor dining area with vegetable-themed wood-carved sculptures by Higganum artist Ted Esselstyn, "Ted can store those in his barn," until Magee figures out how to incorporate them into the new restaurant. She'd love to have an outdoor dining space in the front. "I'd make it as luscious as possible," Magee says.

That will mean hiring a full-time chef and baker and expanding her already 30-member staff.

She's excited to join the already bustling marketplace

ION's last day in Main Street Market is July 31. Magee is hoping to open on Main Street shortly after that.


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